![]() ![]() Bent and misshapen stems - Antique hatpins were pushed and used, so it wouldn't be uncommon to find them bent or misshapen.įor a piece of antique jewelry, hatpins are surprisingly low-priced.No stainless steel - There was no stainless steel being used during the height of hatpin production, so you shouldn't be buying hatpins with stainless steel stems.If the hatpin head would not display well in a hat or would be too heavy for the hat, it's probably not an authentic hatpin. Balance - Consider how the hatpin would look when put through a hat.Period accurate colors and stones - Being aware of colors and materials that were typical of that era, such amethyst and amber, versus garish reds, is helpful.No soldering - Authentic hatpins do not show solder, except for the military buttons made into hatpins during World War I.If the finding is part of a "bridge," it should be properly centered and in good repair. Centered finding - Look for the finding to be centered properly in the middle of the back of the hatpin.Check to see that it hasn't been artificially joined or soldered together. Head and stem joints - Examine the "finding," or the piece that joins the hatpin head to the stem.Contemporary rhinestones have low tables (cut down lower on the stone). High tables - Rhinestones tended to have high tables (where the top is cut off the stone).Prong or bezel set - Rhinestones were usually prong set or bezel set as they were not glued in.The more of these indicators you find, the better the chances are that you have an authentic antique and not a reproduction: While there're not hard-and-fast ways to tell if a hatpin is a true antique, there are a few key indicators that Jodi says you can look for. ![]()
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